Planning for Spring – Seed Savers Exchange

Seed Savers Exchange Yearbook!Not a lot to do in the garden lately.  I’m holding out hope that the scarily dry winter will give way to a miracle March, filled with snow and rain.  In the meantime, the catalogs have arrived in force.  Along with the usual suspects – Seeds of Change, Territorial, High Mowing, Peaceful Valley, John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds, Gourmet Seed International, and Johnny’s, to name a few – the Seed Savers Exchange Yearbook (2012) arrived.  This is my first year as a member of SSE, and I’m already loving the catalog, and especially the micro-stories that accompany many of the seed descriptions.

For example…

Okra – Fife Creek Cowhorn:
Heirloom from the Fife family since about 1900 and believed to have come from a Creek Indian woman who stayed with them for a year in Jackson, Mississippi.

Each seed has a story to tell, and this is the beauty of heirlooms.

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Update – Elderberries on Acid

Elderberry seeds sprout after being bathed in strong acid, then sequestered in the refrigerator.Not much going on in the garden, and no precip for months.  Strange weather…

A couple of months ago, I wrote about scarifying elderberry seeds with strong acid.  I checked the seeds this morning – they’ve been sequestered in the refrigerator for cold stratification – and lo and behold – some of the seeds have actually sprouted!  I picked the 8 strongest, those with the most developed roots, and planted those winners in pots bound for the greenhouse.  The others I sowed in a pot next to their experimental brethren.   With any luck, come spring I’ll have a bunch of elderberry seedlings for eventual transplanting out to the food forest.

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The Alaskan Mill, Dreams of Spring, and Seeds With Character

Trees Taken DownIt’s shaping up to be a cold, dry winter (so far).  The garden has essentially been put to bed, and so attention turns to infrastructure.

These three trees – two very tall pines (Pinus sabiniana) and a cedar – were increasingly shading the garden proper, so they had to go.  I hired a guy to drop them – a “climber” – and a friend and I will use an Alasakan mill to turn the trees into planks or benches or something.  Pine makes pretty lousy firewood (compared to hardwoods like oak or madrone).

I spend much of the winter poring over seed catalogs, daydreaming about spring.  One of my favorites arrived in the mail today – Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.  It’s filled with interesting, unusual, old-fashioned varieties.  I’m not a huge fan of cucumber, but Mexican sour gherkins seem interesting, and I’d like to give naranjilla (Solanum quitoense) a shot, though I suspect my growing season might be too short.  I’m also eagerly awaiting the Seed Savers Exchange yearbook, as I finally ponied up for membership this year.  Browsing the online catalog, I found this listing for Transylvanian Sorrel:

A variety of garden sorrel with nice long strap shaped leaves. Good color and flavor all winter. Needs water in the summer to keep growing., Collected by the Seed Ambassadors from a Hungarian speaking man at the farmers’ market in Cluj-Napoca, Romania on our 2008 trip to Transylvania.

This is to me the best thing about the varieties on offer through Seed Savers Exchange.  These seeds aren’t faceless, mass produced, run-of-the-mill, hybrid seeds from mega-conglomerate seed corporations, but unique characters, each with its own (often romantic, evocative) back-story.  Seeds with character.  Plants I would be proud to have in the garden.

EDIT – I know it’s not technically winter until 21st December, but it might as well be.

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Volunteer Bay

California BayUmbellularia californica, to be exact.  There isn’t a whole lot of it at my elevation (~3k), but it’s fairly common elsewhere in these parts, usually at lower elevations, in stream and river canyons, closer to water.  That being said, at least three have recently appeared in my woods, and one of them (pictured here) emerged in a perfect spot in phase 1 of the food forest.

In the garden proper I have a beautiful specimen of Grecian bay laurel (Laurus nobilis), the laurel of literary and historical fame, its flavor more subtle and refined than that of its California cousin.  I hope this native volunteer thrives – I’m looking forward to trying roasted “bay nuts,” and the leaves (used sparingly) make an excellent addition to beans, sauces, soups and curries.

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Andean Vegetables

frost_damage_02The first frost arrived a couple of weeks ago, damaging the leaves of the Bolivian sunroot (also called yacón) – no surprise there.  I’ve grown this plant for years – I like the tubers, which have a subtle flavor that tastes to me like carrot, celery and that good part of the watermelon rind between the red flesh and the hard outer shell.  Frost supposedly makes the tubers sweeter, and I think that’s true – they also taste better and better the longer they remain in the crisper drawer.

The plant is perennial, but it never seems to overwinter in the ground in my garden – it just rots away.  Every year, after the first frost, I dig the plants up, remove and wash the tubers, and then divide up the rhizomes (the reddish nubs at the base of the stem and above the tubers from which the aerial shoots form), storing them in a bucket of sand or potting soil in a shed to prevent them from freezing.  In the spring, after the last frost, I plant them out in full sun, ideally in a deep, loose soil.  As a large-leaved plant, Bolivian sunroot is a bit of a water hog.

Bolivian SunrootThis year, I decided to try leaving a few yacón rhizomes in the ground.  I mulched them heavily with straw, hopefully to protect them from freezing, so perhaps they’ll suffer the winter and resprout in the spring.  Next season, remind me to try making (reportedly healthy) tea from the leaves.

Speaking of Andean vegetables, years ago I tried growing oca (Oxalis tuberosa), but it wasn’t especially happy in my garden.  This spring, I’d like to try again, and also plan to give mashua and ulluco a shot.

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Alliums, And Lots Of ‘Em

Shallots EmergingSome of my favorite food plants are in the genus Allium.  Garlic is one of my favorite garden plants (read about it here, here, here, here and here), and I have it in the garden proper and the food forest.

Pictured here are shallots, which around here are planted, like most things allium, in October.  They start rooting and growing in the fall, stall out with the cold temperatures and snow, and then jump up in the early spring and mature in the summer.

In addition to garlic and shallots, I’ve got garlic chives, several kinds of traditional bulb onions, leeks, chives, Chinese leeks, elephant garlic, Egyptian walking onions (these are top setting onions), and hopefully (someday, if they germinate) bear’s garlic and rampsPotato onions are intriguing, but I haven’t planted any.  Perhaps in the early spring…  Until then, seed catalogs.

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Creep Year

Aronia "Viking"The first year they sleep
The second year they creep
The third year they leap

So goes the old saying about perennials.

This has been the creep year (year 2) for a number of perennials in my garden.  Two that I planted in the garden proper, but that are destined for the food forest – eventually, in the form of cuttings – are Sambucus nigra (“Goldbeere”) and Aronia melanocarpa (“Viking” – pictured here).  I’m growing both for their berries, though they have yet to fruit.  With any luck, next year will be their leap year.

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Critical Mass

I have sort of come to the conclusion – inasmuch as I can come to a conclusion this early in the process – that where I garden, building a food forest is about critical mass.  It’s a very different aesthetic than planting, say, a row or garden full of spring annuals.  Since I started seriously “building” the first patch of food forest, I have taken the approach of mindfully planting a bunch of things (hopefully the right things, in the right places) and then forgetting about them.  I’ve scattered seeds, buried tubers and rhizomes, and transplanted young plants.  To date, the list of plants includes blueberries, currants (red and black), gooseberries, sorrel, Goji berries, rhubarb, horseradish, strawberries, lingonberries, sunchokes, lots of different allium representatives (garlic, leeks, onions, chives, shallots, garlic chives, ramps, bear’s garlic), clovers and medics, assorted mustards and other greens, and carrots, radishes, turnips, sunflowers, and various herbs.

Stevia Flowers

Stevia Flowers

Already this “plant and forget” approach has yielded satisfying surprises – onions and garlic are emerging in places I had forgotten I planted them, and other scattered seeds have germinated and are taking off.  Come spring, the herbaceous, ground cover, shrub and rhizome layers will hopefully start filling in, which leaves the vertical and low tree layers, both of which I’m still working on.  For the low tree layer, today I planted the plum seeds I collected a few weeks ago, cherry seeds collected at the the National Mall in Washington, DC, as well as ramps seeds that have been in the refrigerator.  In January, I’ll plant the cold-stratified and acid scarified elder seeds, and see how their germination rates compare to the control seeds.  One of the Chinese hackberry seeds germinated, and the seedling is robust and growing steadily.  For the vertical layer, I’ll try to root cuttings from my most robust grape vines, and hope that the various kiwi plants that I rooted this year will come back in the spring, at which point I’ll transplant them out into the food forest to climb up the pines and cedars.

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Misery?

Bear CloverMountain misery (Chamaebatia foliolosa), also know as bear clover and kit-ke-dizze, is one of the native ground cover plants throughout this part of the Sierra, and I have it in abundance on my property, including throughout the very sunny parts of the food forest.  Interestingly, mountain misery is a non-legume nitrogen fixer, and so performs some of the same good work as a cover crop.

I find it beautiful, with delicate, somewhat sticky, fern-like leaves, and a distinctive aroma that I very much like, though I think the smell is the source of its common name.

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Feed Your Soil, Not Your Plants: Cover Croppin’

Cover CropCover cropping is, in my view, one of the best things you can do for your soil, and one of the easiest.

Here’s how it works:

You plant some seeds – I usually use a mix of legumes (vetch, bell beans and field peas) and cold weather annual grasses (rye and oats) – timing your planting for the first fall rains, which in my neck of the woods usually fall in late October.  The seeds germinate and grow fairly vigorously until the weather gets very cold, at which point the plants go dormant.

HugelkulturAt the first sign of warm(ish) weather in the spring, everything wakes up and puts on mad growth.  All the while the legumes fix nitrogen in their roots via an amazing relationship with bacteria, and that nitrogen helps the next crop along, while the grasses and greens add organic matter.  2 or 3 weeks before you’re ready to plant spring/summer annuals, you chop up the plants and either till them into the soil, or compost them, or else just leave them on top of the soil as mulch.   What could be better?

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about creating various hügelkultur mounds for future fruit trees. I planted the mounds out with a cover crop, which I imagine might mitigate some of the potential nitrogen deficiency that comes with burying lots of woody materials, and besides, soil always seems happier when it’s hosting plants.

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